The Perigord Noir:
On the rolling hills of limestone rocks, the forests of evergreen oaks which gave the area its name are crossed by the valleys of the Dordogne and the Vézère which it meets. The Perigord Noir, with Lascaux and Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, has definitely been posseded by Man, who, particularly in the Magdalian Age decorated shelters and caves engravings and paintings and also carvings, masterpieces of parietal art. |
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| It was in the Middle Ages that a network of churches established in the Perigord Noir and fortified castles around villages were built, sometimes erected as a bastide or fortified village, an example of which is Domme. Right at its heart, a jewel in pale stones, Sarlat-la-Canéda is the capital of a rich kingdom for gastronomes where walnuts, truffes and foi gras jostle for space at the table. |
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Some interesting places to visit:
Sarlat: [ top ]
Sarlat, the geographical centre of Périgord-Quercy, is by far the most important tourist site in the region. Over a million visitors discover or rediscover this mediaeval jewel every year. This town of 10.000 inhabitants today occupies top spot in terms of tourists and culture. Although this is basically a cultural town, industry is also represented, mainly by food processing firms, many of which produce foi gras. This foi gras, one of the most highly rated in France, has contributed to the great culinairy reputation of Perigord in general and the town in particular.
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Strolling through the small streets in the historical centre, you are seemingly transported back into past full of glorious memories. A town of merchants, clerks and men of the cloth., Sarlat developed due to its commerce and its fairs which still exist today. Far from the great economic crossroads, the city fell into slumber after the Revolution and its old quarters where thus conserved intact. (In july and august visit Sarlat by night!!)
Domme (12 km south of Sarlat): [ top ]
The village of Domme was built on a 'promontory hanging between the valley and the sky' on an enormous rocky 'dome' at a height of 150 metres overlooking the Dordogne which meanders peacefully below. Situated on an exceptional site at the crossroads of main regional roads , a feudal castle marked the spot until 1280. Domme was occupied by the English during the 100 year war. Domme was built according to strict architectural principles laid down for fortified cities with its streets intersecting at right-angles. |
| Its general form is trapeze-shaped however, thus adapting to the shape of the land. With its flower-filled lanes and its old houses of honey-coloured stones and brown tiles, the town of Domme has conserved its charme. Inside the town, you can discover numerous monuments. From La Bare lookout, there is a splendid panorama over the valley. |
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La Roque Gageac (12 km south of Sarlat): [ top ]
Built against the rock-face at the foot of the cliff covered in green oaks, the houses of this small town spread out along the Dordogne river. Its hewn stones and rocks are bathed in soft light and the exeptional beauty of its natural site cannot but enchant the visitor. In the Middle Ages, the small town was practically impregnable, well protected behind its walls and prospered due mostly to the fishing trade. Nowadays there is just enough room between the closely built houses for the picturesque lanes which climb up towards the fortified church and the Tarde family manor. You can continue your trip along the right and left banks of the Dordogne alternatively and come to the magnificent site of Castelnaud Castle.
Castelnaud (12 km S.W. of Sarlat): [ top ]
Castelnaud Château, meaning new castle, was built in the 12th century on a promontory which guarded the Dordogne. Situated in English territory, the castle was rival to Beynac Castle (also worhtwhile to visit!), which remained loyal to the king of France during the 100 years war. Considered as 'the strongest rampart of Perigord' Castelnaud Castle was involved in all of the religious battles. It is presently being restored. The visit includes slide shows and explanatory video films als well as recontructions of war machinery, an archery room and an arms depot (late 15th century). (Great visit for boys! Knights, etc)
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Les Milandes (15 km S.W. of Sarlat): [ top ]
A little further on is Milandes castle. It was built in 1489 by Francois de Caumont, lord of Castelnaud and became his main residence. Surrounded by fine terrace gardens, |
Chateau des Milandes remains eternally linked to that of Josephine Baker. For many years she lived here and set up her 'village of the world' with her adopted children. The castle appartments can be visited today and contain numerous objects and furniture belongings to the Caumont family and the famous singer. The visit also includes music, slide shows and parts of her films.
Monpazier (50 km S.W. of Sarlat): [ top ]
Built overlooking the Dropt Valley, Monpazier is certainly the finest and best preserved of Périgord´s English bastides.
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Along with Beaumont, Molières, Lalinde and Fonroque, it formed part of the English defense system to the south of the Périgord. Today, Monpazier still has a 400 m by 220 m North-South grid layout, surrounded by ramparts. The streets which cross at right angles, are themselves intersected by a network of side streets. The central square, the courtyard and the bastide, is lined with arcaded houses. Monpazier has retained its entire Gothic character. Still today, fairs are held on days laid down in the charter. The central square has kept its medieval appearance. |
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Montignac & Lascaux (25 km north of Sarlat): [ top ]
Montignac owes its fame to the discovery of the 'eight wonder of the world', the Lascaux cave. The ticket that you buy at Montignac to visit the replica of Lascaux prehistoric caves is also valid for le Thot, the prehistoric art centre whose numerous features (films, models, anmimal park, etc.) will enable you to gain a better knowledge of the Prehistoric era. |
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Open to visitors from1948 to 1963 and then invaded by an atmosphere full of bacteria, carbon dioxide gas and humidity, Lascaux suffered more during these fifteen years than in several millenia.
The fortuitous discovery in september 1940 , by four adolescents who were looking for their dog, of Lascaux caves was to reveal to the world this 'Sistine Chapel of History', according to the words of the Abbot Breuil. Around 17 000 years ago, the artists of the Upper Palaeolithic Age were able to obtain a range of brown tones by mixing ocres and animal fat. With improvised brushes, perched on scaffolding of oak logs, lit by small tallow and juniper lamps they drew the animals that they often watched and hunted. In 1963, Lascaux was closed to the public who can, since 1983, visit Lascaux II, an exact copy of the original!! |
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There are many, many other interesting places to visit: do not forget: Rocamadour (the black Madonna!!), Perigueux, Bergerac (the wine vineyards and caves!), Cahors, Figeac, Les Eyzies, Cadouin, etc. |
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Recommended Restaurants: [ top ]
'L´Esplanade' in Domme
'Belvedere de Belvès' in Belvès
' Le petit Paris' in Daglan
'Auberge de la Nauze' in Sagelat (on the road to Siorac just after Belves on your right)
'La trèfle à 4 feuilles' in the centre of Siorac
'La petite chaperonne rouge' just outside Siorac
Pizzeria 'Minou' in Monpazier
'Le Prince noir' in Monflanquin
'Auberge de la Poste' & 'Le Criquetamus' & La Rapière in Sarlat
' Le relais de 5 Chateaux' in Vezac. (on the road in between Sarlat and Beynac)
'La belle etoile' in La Roque Gageac
Shopping: [ top ]
Most shops, banks, etc. are open from 09.00-12.00 and from 14.30-19.00 hours.
In july and august most supermarkets are open all day.
On sunday morning lots of supermarkets (a.o. in Siorac and St. Cyprien) are open untill 12.00 hours.
Banks (Villefranche du Perigord, Belvès, Fumel(Libos), Daglan, Sarlat, Cenac, etc) are closed on mondays.
From Tuesday until Saturday open for business only in the morning!
Markets: Sunday in Daglan & St.Cyprien (worthwile), Wednesdaymorning in Siorac and Wednesday and Saturday in Sarlat (very nice!), Thursday in Fumel (Libos) (very nice!) & Domme, Saturdays also in Villefranche du Perigord & Belvès .
Tuesday in Gourdon, etc.: [ top ]
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